Make-Ahead Turkey Gravy

Heat the oven to 220C conventional (200C fan).

Toss the turkey pieces, onion, carrots, celery, and garlic with the neutral oil in a large roasting tray. Spread everything out so it can brown rather than steam.

Roast for 45 to 55 minutes, turning the pieces and vegetables once or twice, until the turkey is deeply browned and the vegetables have dark golden edges.

Stir in the tomato puree and return the tray to the oven for 5 to 8 minutes, until it darkens slightly and smells caramelised. Watch closely: burnt tomato puree or fond will make the gravy bitter.

Transfer the roasted turkey and vegetables to a large saucepan or stockpot.

Pour about 250 ml of the low-salt stock into the hot roasting tray. Scrape up every browned bit, then add that liquid to the pan.

Add the remaining stock, bay leaves, thyme, rosemary, and peppercorns. Bring just to a simmer, then cook uncovered for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Keep the heat gentle: a quiet simmer develops flavour while keeping the stock clearer. Vigorous boiling can make it cloudy and reduce it too aggressively.

Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pan, pressing the vegetables gently without forcing them through the sieve.

Discard the solids. Simmer the strained stock if needed until about 900 ml to 1 litre remains and it tastes distinctly of turkey. Reserve any extra stock for loosening the finished gravy.

Melt the butter in a clean saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly, until the roux is lightly golden and smells nutty rather than raw.

If using dry sherry or Madeira, whisk it into the roux and let it reduce briefly before adding the stock.

Gradually whisk in 750 ml of the prepared turkey stock, adding it a little at a time at first so the roux stays smooth. Once incorporated, whisk in Worcestershire sauce.

Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, whisking occasionally, until smooth and glossy. Add more stock as needed until it is slightly thicker than your desired final consistency; it will thicken further as it cools.

Season conservatively with salt and black pepper. The serving-day turkey juices may be salty, so final seasoning is best done after they are added.

Cool the gravy promptly, then refrigerate in airtight containers for up to 3 to 4 days or freeze for up to 3 months.

Thaw frozen gravy overnight in the refrigerator. Reheat it thoroughly in a saucepan, whisking until smooth, before finishing with fresh turkey juices if you have them.

After roasting your turkey, pour the roasting juices into a separator or let them stand briefly so the fat rises. Use mostly the defatted juices.

Deglaze the roasting tin with the water, stock, or dry wine, scraping up the fond. Reheat the prepared gravy and gradually whisk in the juices and deglazing liquid.

Taste before seasoning. Add up to 1 teaspoon soy sauce only if you want more savouriness and colour. Simmer if the gravy is too thin, or loosen with stock if it is too thick, then serve hot.